Late December brings hazardous tides but those same waves can be the rides of dreams.
Malibu’s west beaches are producing big and long right breaks. Surfrider, Leo Carrillo and Countyline are all producing some of the best surf of winter.
The pacific has been tossing storms of magnitude that is creating big swells that have been an advanced surfer’s dream. Monitoring the surf cameras show the waves are producing a good face or shape with accompanied rolling breaks.
For those who choose the rise to the challenge of these conditions, must be skilled in reading waves, in very good paddle fitness and a focused mindset of the now.
Take the time on the shore to read how when and where the waves are breaking.
Assess how long (both time and distance) you’ll have to paddle between sets and where is the best path to the line up..
When going out, focus on good deep breaths, good balance on the board and a good read on the waves breaking ahead.
Focus on the prize, that spot where you can think about the ride ahead. The place where you can rest a moment while riding the swells.
Board choices are personal, but remember these waves can and do will snap boards especially longer boards so be aware of those consequences.
So be aware of your fellow surfer and friend who may not be of this caliber yet.
Have fun and stay safe out there!