“Calm seas never made a skilled sailor.“ as the old adage goes. For those who are looking for the calm peaceful rise and fall of being in the line up, today is not your day. But is it worth going out anyway?
Last week’s swells at most coastal areas of California were very dangerous to be by or in. Contrarily, we saw there were 3 places that were incredible surf IF you were very capable paddler with short and medium boards.
Countyline was by far the biggest waves breaking far from shore which made for long paddles but incredible long rides left or right. Leo Carrillo had its famous break firing strong by its famous rock. And Surfrider was plus fun-size with very consistent shapes and long rides.
However this week’s challenge has been the off shore winds, making very choppy waves and wrecking the shape has unexpectedly made Zuma the place to “test’ your skills. Placing yourself in the midst of mild chaos may be the best training for you. The winds are constantly smacking the sea spray into your face and back which brings deafening rushing sounds. But in this you can find peace and calm in your mind allowing you to navigate and score a few crazy waves that might just impress you. This brings a session like no other, a test to your fortitude against the elements.
So, be safe, check in with your local lifeguard and as long as it’s not dangerous, get out there and experience the fun of chaos!
See you on the beach!